With 263 islands and 733 km of coast line, Hong Kong waters offer a great variety of natural environments and cruising opportunities. From the deserted coves and white sandy beaches of the North-East to the sheltered, watery playgrounds of Saikung and the South Side, without forgetting the seafood restaurants of Clearwater Bay, Lamma and Po Toi island, Hong Kong has it all, a boat trip away.
A) THE SOUTH SIDE: the second most frequented cruising ground after Port Shelter (C), the South Side is accessible all year round. Passengers generally board in Aberdeen, occasionally from Stanley pier. Favourite destinations are Deep Water Bay and Repulse Bay, where most of Hong Kong’s super yachts congregate, to see and be seen. In the winter monsoon season, it can get rather windy; boats prefer to anchor in Taitam Bay, South Bay, Chu Mong Kok, West and North Lamma (Luk Chau Wan), which all offer good protection from the eastern swell. Another big attraction of the South Side are those two Hong Kong seafood classics: the Potoi restaurant and the Sok Kwun Wan fishing village on Lamma Island. Said restaurants can also be the destination of an evening cruise, followed by night caps in Deep Water Bay. As for sailors, they enjoy the south-eastern reaches of Hong Kong waters, around Waglan island, for some of the best wind in the regi0n. Taipan’s advice: if you haven’t been to the Leung family’s Po Toi restaurant or The Authentic Lamma Hilton, start with that and stop for a swim on the way back.
B) THE WILD WEST: very few leisure boats venture west of Lamma, unless they berth in Discovery Bay. Blame the distance: 20 nautical miles from Aberdeen to Soko Islands. But for those in search of a more adventurous cruise, and solitude, the call of the wilderness will prove irresistible. Perfect for overnight cruises – think bonfires on desert beaches, tents and barbecues – the area is also great for sailing in the monsoon season, when the strong easterly winds only raise a moderate swell in the lee of Lamma island. There is something to be said for having the sea all to yourself. Taipan’s advice: charter a sailing boat in November, camp overnight on a Soko or West Lantau beach, have a seafood lunch on Peng Chau island on the return journey.
C) PORT SHELTER: also referred to as “Saikung” in reference to the area’s main port of embarcation, Port Shelter is Hong Kong’s #1 leisure cruising destination. There are several good reasons to explain its success. First of all, it is sheltered enough to be navigable all year round. Just as importantly, is is scattered with small uninhabited islands and surrounded by Country Parks, which means that most of its pristine small beaches are only accessible by sea: Millionaires’ Bay, Basalt Island, Snake Bay, Nine Pin Islands, to name a few. There is also a great choice of seafood restaurants, from the fishing village of Po Toi O, near Clear Water Bay, to the ever successful Yau Lei, off Rocky Harbour. The price of its success: the area can suffer from being too busy, when day junks, diving boats and wakeboarder all congregate on a single spot. Taipan’s advice: start early, in Central or Causeway Bay, so you get the benefit of a Victoria Harbour sunset on the way back, and move around to avoid the crowds. A good captain always knows where to go.
D) EASTERN SHORES: Who would have thought one could find such pristine wilderness, so close to the city? Tucked away at the feet of the mountainous Saikung East Country Park, the white sandy beaches of Long Ke Wan and Tai Long Wan offer some of the most spectacular sights in Hong Kong. Running for miles, from north to south, and distant enough to attract only small crowds, these are the most beautiful beaches in Hong Kong, by far. One caveat: easterly winds can raise a big swell, making for some robust sailing and tricky beach landings. For this reason, most visitors wait for the summer season, from May to October, when the light southerlies make the passage safe and comfortable. Activities include trawling fishing on the way there and back, and going for a trek up the Country Park. Taipan’s advice: sail up to Long Ke Wan at the end of the season, just before the monsoon arrives, have a barbecue on the beach, spend the night onboard and sail back the next morning, stopping for lunch in Port Shelter and sunset drinks in Kowloon Harbour.
E) THE FAR NORTH: The best, we kept for the end. The farthest destination in Hong Kong waters can only be reached on an overnight charter. East of the Plover Cove Country Park, a scattering of deserted islands form perfectly sheltered little coves, across from the Chinese border. Diving. Exploration. Visiting fishing villages of Grass Island (Tap Mun and Ko Lau Wan Tsui across the channel) and Crooked Island (the Hakka village of Tung O). How Ha Wan Marine and Geological Parks. Taipan’s advice: leave early from Hebe Haven or Causeway Bay, reach Double Haven in the early afternoon, have a late lunch in the Hakka restaurant on Crooked Island, swim, dive, fish, collect clams and oyster for your barbecue / bonfire dinner and the next day, pick up some nice wind in Mirs Bay, have lunch in Grass Island and sail back to see the sun set on Victoria Harbour. This is the charter you will never forget.
Featured image: Admiralty Chart, based on soundings by Captain Sir Edward Belcher, 1883
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